Who Is Winning? We Are.

Day Three, Kirsten conquered blisters the size of Madrid. I did not flake out on the way up the mountain, and we were rewarded with an incredible view of the valley and the last two beds at the albergue below. We befriended some Germans. And a Korean who lives in Germany. Kirsten led us in yoga on the front yard, and many others watched. And applauded.

Day Four got tougher. After a strong morning, the blisters rallied their troops. Ten kilometres later, an attempt to catch the bus to the next albergue almost ended in disaster. Then a stranger pulled over at the bus stop where we waited.

"There is no bus to Guemes," he told us. Hearts fell.

Then, through much effort, we finally discerned that he was going to the albergue himself, to treat peregrinos (pilgrims), and HE WOULD DRIVE US. So the local physiotherapist took us to a place where hot lunch was waiting...and rest was ours.

Day Five has been deemed "Jump Ahead Day." A short car ride, a quick ferry, lunch and goodbye to our German-speaking friends, and a 4-hour train to Oviedo.

Tomorrow, Day Six, is Rest & Prep Day. We have branched off the northern coastal route to "El Camino Primitivo." Interestingly, this is translated "The Original Route" in one guide, rather than "The Primitive Route," which seems more accurate. Maybe we anglophones would be intimidated?

Mountains and thousand year-old churches are ahead of us. The coast, and hopefully blisters, are behind us.

We will keep rolling with the punches and making this trip our own.

(I wrote this on the train. After arriving in Oviedo, we walked through the rain in our flip flops to discover one bed and one kitchen bench available at the albergue. No one wanted the kitchen bench, so we left. On our way into an open grocery store (at 9:30pm on Sunday!), I did the splits on wet granite and smashed my toe... Hostel #1 was full. So was Hostel #2. So we are at a hotel. My toe is swollen and bruising. BUT WHO NEEDS THEIR FOURTH TOE? Tomorrow, we nurse our toes. Tuesday... We hope to go.